I’ve been vacationing in Maine every summer for my entire life, and I often get asked for recommendations for things to see and do, so I thought I’d put a post together so I have it all in one place. This is by no means an exhaustive list, as entire books have been written on this subject, but I did my best to recap our favorite things to see and do in DownEast Maine.
Green Lake in Ellsworth, Maine
Maine is a large state, and because we have family in the Bangor area, that’s where we always go, so my recommendations are largely focused on the region of Maine they call DownEast. This includes Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island, and Acadia National Park. If you’re looking at areas further south like Portland and Kennebunk, I’m not your girl, although I’d like to do some more exploring in those areas someday.
When to Visit Maine (in the Summer)
Black Mountain Hike, Schoodic Peninsula, summer 2016
If you’re planning to visit Maine during the summertime, it’s important to know the best time to go. There is a very short window of time when you can expect dependably good weather, and that’s pretty much the month of August. We have done okay in late July, as well. Any earlier than that, and you’re likely to end up with cold, rainy weather, and the black flies are terrible in June. You can push it into the first week or two of September to avoid the worst of the crowds, but it starts getting cold fast.
In fact, even if you visit in late July or August, be prepared for a wide variety of weather. I have never overpacked for a Maine vacation. I almost always end up wishing I had more of something, and often it’s jeans or long pants. I should be an expert at packing for Maine by now, but I still ended up wishing I had brought long pants and cozy socks this week. Rain gear is also a must, but I’m getting ahead of myself.
Things to See & Do (and Where to Eat)
Castine, Maine
There is so much to see and do here, it’s hard to condense it into one post, but I’ll share our favorite spots.
Acadia National Park: Mount Desert Island & Schoodic Peninsula
Mount Desert Island
Mount Desert Island is a large island off the coast of Maine in Frenchman Bay. It’s home to several small towns and villages, Bar Harbor being the most well-known, but we’ve also enjoyed visiting the more “off the beaten path” Northeast Harbor (home to the Asticou Inn, where we have enjoyed several meals) and Southwest Harbor (a quaint village dotted with shops and art galleries, and home to some gorgeous water views. Some day I hope to stay at The Claremont Hotel.)
Bar Harbor is a bustling little town on Mount Desert Island overlooking Frenchman Bay, with lots of shops and restaurants. It tends to get very crowded, and parking can be challenging, but it’s very walkable and fun to visit.
Bar Harbor, Maine, summer 2022
We have eaten at quite a few restaurants here over the years. Testa’s used to be a favorite, but it can be hit or miss. Most recently, we had a lovely lunch with delicious food and gorgeous views at the Terrace Grille, which is right on the harbor. (pictured above) And we often stop into Ben and Bill’s Chocolate Emporium for ice cream.
There is no shortage of shops to visit here, from bookstores (Sherman’s is a favorite) to touristy sweatshirts and souvenirs (Cool As A Moose and The Acadia Shop) to outdoorsy clothing and gear (Cadillac Mountain Sports) and so many more.
The Park Loop Road is a 27-mile loop around the east side of Mount Desert Island that provides access to popular tourist attractions such as Cadillac Mountain, Thunder Hole, Jordan Pond, and various trailheads such as the Precipice Trail and the Beehive.
This is a scenic drive that is well worth doing at least once, but you will need a pass to enter this part of Acadia National Park, and I highly recommend parking at the Visitor Center and taking one of the shuttles. It’s very crowded and hard to find parking at the various stops along the way, and it’s far more relaxing to take the shuttle.
Drive (or take the shuttle) to the top of Cadillac Mountain, the highest peak on the East Coast) for incredible panoramic views of Mount Desert Island and the Porcupine Islands. This is especially gorgeous at sunrise, but I have never done it that early.
One of my favorite Maine memories as a child is visiting Thunder Hole, a small inlet naturally carved out of the rocks. When the tide is coming in, the waves crash into the “hole” and create a loud boom that resembles thunder, and an impressive spray of water up into the air. It gets quite crowded, and you have to time it just right, so we usually bypass this particular attraction, but it’s fun to do it once.
Becca enjoying a popover at Jordan Pond House, summer 2010
Jordan Pond is another favorite spot that I have visited more times than I can count, or more specifically, the Jordan Pond House — a popular restaurant known for their tea and popovers. I also highly recommend the lobster stew. It overlooks Jordan Pond, with a view of The Bubbles in the distance, and there’s also a nice gift shop to keep you busy while you wait for your table. Reservations are highly recommended, no matter what time of day you plan to go.
Precipice Trail, summer 2011 (that’s David in the distance)
You can rent a bike and ride the Carriage Trails, and there are several hikes nearby. Our favorite is the South Bubble because it’s home to Bubble Rock — a large, round boulder that’s perched on the edge of a ledge. This is a relatively easy hike with really nice views, but if you like more of a challenge, the Beehive Loop Trail and the Precipice Trail are popular hikes. Otter Cliff is also worth the visit.
Schoodic Penninsula
Schoodic Loop Road
If you want to go a little more off the beaten path, Schoodic Peninsula is located across Frenchman Bay and includes the towns of Gouldsboro and Winter Harbor. The Schoodic Loop Road is an 8-mile loop perfect for biking, but you can drive it if you wish.
There are also some hiking trails on nearby Black Mountain, which we’ve done several times as a family. The real money spot, though, is Schoodic Point at the southern tip of the Peninsula. The rugged, granite cliffs jut out into the Atlantic Ocean, providing breathtaking views of the sea and the surrounding landscape. We rarely come to Maine without making a drive out to this scenic spot where you can walk out on the rocky coast and sit for hours, watching and listening to the waves crashing up on the rocks.
Schoodic Point
When visiting the Schoodic, we often stop through Winter Harbor, a small fishing town on the peninsula, and eat lunch at Chase’s Restaurant. This year, we tried something new and drove over to nearby Corea and ate at Lunch On The Wharf, which overlooks a tranquil working harbor. They have gluten free bread and corn tortillas and were very good with accommodating my daughter’s Celiac Disease, in case anyone ever needs that information.
Camden, Rockland & Rockport
Camden Harbor
Camden is a charming little town on the Penobscot Bay, with historic homes and inns, and stunning views of Camden Harbor and the surrounding hills. It also tends to get quite crowded in high season, but you can usually find street parking if you’re patient.
The downtown area has a bunch of shops and restaurants, including nicer art and home decor, as well as several historic sites and landmarks. You can take a scenic boat tour around the harbor, go on a whale watch or puffin cruise, or visit Camden Hills State Park on top of Mt. Battie for some scenic views.
We like to eat at the Waterfront restaurant, where you can enjoy traditional Maine cuisine as well as a nice harbor view, and Sea Dog Brewing is pretty good too.
Not far from Camden is the town of Rockland, and the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse is definitely worth the trip. The Farnsworth Art Museum and Rockland Harbor Trail are also worth doing.
Rockport is another coastal village that’s tucked away in between Rockland and Camden. It’s an artists’ community that is also known as home to Andre the Seal, who was a significant tourist attraction in Rockport Harbor until his death in 1986. Now there’s a monument in his honor in Rockport Harbor. It’s just a fun little detour when you’re exploring the Maine Coast.
Fort Knox + Penobscot Narrows Bridge and Observatory
Fort Knox
For the history buffs, Fort Knox is one of the best-preserved examples of coastal defense fortifications built in the mid-19th century. It’s a fun place to tour, and there’s a picnic area, and also nice scenic spots for photos.
And the Penobscot Narrows Bridge and Observatory is an impressive cable-stayed bridge in Bucksport, Maine, that took about three years to build. I remember driving around it as it was being built, and it finally opened to traffic at the end of 2006.
You can go up inside, and the views of the Penobscot River and beyond are spectacular. Here’s a blast from the past…
Penobscot Narrows Bridge and Observatory, summer 2007
Castine & Blue Hill
Castine is more off the beaten path, and one of our favorite day trips from where we stay in Ellsworth. There’s a lot of history in Castine, as well as some of the most beautiful homes I’ve ever seen. It’s also home to the Maine Maritime Academy.
We usually eat lunch at Dennett’s Wharf, and then we almost always walk through town to the Dyce Head Light. From there, we like to take the foot path down to the rocks where you can sit and look out over the Penobscot Bay. It’s one of our favorite day trips.
Castine, Maine
Over the years, we’ve also enjoyed visiting the Castine Historic Society, the Wilson Museum, and the Maritime Museum. Also, many years ago, Paul and I stayed overnight at the Castine Inn and had dinner there to celebrate an anniversary, and we have great memories of that.
Blue Hill is near Castine, and we often stop there to hike Blue Hill Mountain. There are several trails, but we usually do the Tower Service Trail because the whole family can do it.
Blue Hill Mountain Hike, summer
Ellsworth
Ellsworth isn’t exactly a destination you would travel to visit, but it’s a major crossroads for Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor, and thus has been dubbed the “Gateway to DownEast Maine,” so it actually has a lot to offer. It also happens to be the nearest town to where we stay on Green Lake, so we often drive into Ellsworth for meals and other sundries.
We like to peruse Cadillac Mountain Sports, an outdoor specialty store, and Rooster Brother, a unique store for cooks. On the bottom level is a coffee shop with lots of specialty foods, wine, and cheeses; and on the upper level is a nice assortment of specialty cookware, linens, dishes, and gifts.
There are also some really good restaurants in Ellsworth. Union River Lobster Pot is our favorite place to go for lobster dinner, and it also provides nice views of Union River. Provender is a little more upscale, and we recently discovered Maggie Moo’s for ice cream; they even have gluten free waffle cones, which delighted our daughter with Celiac Disease. I also love to grocery shop at John Edward’s Market, a family owned health foods store. (They also have a nice wine selection.)
Where to Stay in DownEast Maine
Acadia National Park, summer 2005
I’m not an expert on specific places to stay in the area because we always stay at my family’s vacation home on Green Lake, but there is everything from small hotels to campgrounds to rental homes. It just depends on your preferences.
As far as where to stay, Bar Harbor may seem like the obvious choice, but it’s very crowded. We like Ellsworth because you can access all of the places I mentioned above, and it’s not as congested as staying in a highly trafficked tourist spot like Bar Harbor.
What to Pack for a Maine Summer Vacation
This is really a post in and of itself. In fact, I wrote one already, but I’ll touch on it briefly here. Maine is very casual, and unless you have an event to attend or you plan to celebrate a special occasion, you won’t need dressy clothes. But you will need a wide variety of layering options because the weather is all over the place. Like I said above, I’ve never come to Maine and felt like I overpacked. I usually wish I had more options.
You’ll want a mix of pants and shorts, long and short sleeve tops, a sweatshirt or cardigan for layering, and I always bring some type of rain gear. Plus, supportive closed toe shoes for walking and hiking and sight-seeing are a must, and I like to bring comfortable sandals for hotter days. Water shoes are a good idea, if you’re staying at a lake or campground.
This post is obviously geared to summer vacations in Maine, but fall is an amazing time to visit, as well. Most of the places I mentioned above are open through mid-October, but times of operation may be limited, so definitely do your research when planning a trip. For the fall, you will want warmer clothing and lots of layering options. It’s always colder than you expect, especially on the coast.
