Know What to Avoid Understand Your Skin Type Note Concentrations and Formulations
When looking for a new skincare product, the most intimidating part of the process is often reading the label. You may know basics like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and (of course) water, but as you scan through the long list of names, we understand if you begin to feel overwhelmed. As someone who tests beauty products on the regular, I’m still often thrown off by ingredients—I don’t know what “monoethanolamine” or “quaternium-15” are and they certainly don’t sound like things I want on my skin. While those two examples happen to be generally worth avoiding, some other confusing-sounding ingredients might be the scientific names for things you do want, so familiarity is key. Ahead, we asked two dermatologists for a complete guide on how to read skincare ingredient labels correctly, so you can know exactly what’s in your products and make the best decision.
Pay Attention to Ingredient Order
Most ingredient lists, skincare or otherwise, are in the order they are for a reason. “The ingredients list on skincare products is typically ordered from the highest to lowest concentration,” says board-certified dermatologist Shari Marchbein, MD. “Focus on the first few ingredients, which comprise the bulk of the product. Look for active ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, or peptides, often listed near the top if they are present in significant amounts. Water (aqua) and glycerin are common bases and usually listed early as well.”
While the top of the ingredients list may give you a good first idea of what's in your products, our experts advise reading the entire list to ensure no mishaps. "The efficacy of any topical is dependent on its active ingredients," explains board-certified dermatologist Nima Gharavi, MD. "In addition, certain ingredients may cause irritation or allergic reactions and should be avoided."
Understand Ingredient Types
Now that you know ingredient lists go in order of concentration, it's important to understand the ingredient types. Marchbein breaks them down as follows:
- Active ingredients: These are the key ingredients that provide specific benefits, such as sunscreen agents, antioxidants, and exfoliants.
- Emollients and humectants: These keep skin moisturized and may include oils (like jojoba oil or shea butter) and hydrating agents (like glycerin and hyaluronic acid).
- Preservatives: These are necessary to maintain product stability and safety, but some people may be sensitive to certain preservatives like parabens or formaldehyde-releasing agents, so pay attention to how your skin reacts to various products to learn if there’s anything you should avoid.
- Fragrances and dyes: These are often listed towards the end of an ingredient list and may cause irritation, especially for sensitive skin.
Know Which Ingredients You Want
While which exact ingredients you want will look different for everyone based on skin type, concerns, allergies, and more, it’s important to make sure that you see what you want near the top of the list. Picking up a vitamin C serum? Be sure that vitamin C is a top-listed ingredient, and so on (refer back to the active ingredients list above; Common names for Vitamin C on the label include L-ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl palmitate).
"Ingredients that I want to see in topical skincare include antioxidants (like vitamin C, vitamin E, and resveratrol), retinol, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, squalane, ceramides, growth factors, and peptides," Gharavi says.
Know What to Avoid
The reality is that many skincare products have ingredients you’ll want to avoid in many cases. “From common allergens to potential carcinogens, ingredients to avoid include methyl and propyl parabens, sulphates, aluminum, formaldehyde, paraformaldehyde, phthalates, and heavy metals, including arsenic, cadmium, lead, mercury, and nickel,” Gharavi says.
While some of these are ingredients that everyone should avoid and others depend on your sensitivities, the ingredients to look out for typically fall into one of three categories. Marchbein breaks them down as follows:
- Fragrances: Whether to avoid fragrances ultimately depends on your sensitivity and personal preference, but it’s often best to steer clear when it comes to skincare. Look for products labeled fragrance-free: Even products labeled as unscented may contain masking fragrances that can be irritating to sensitive skin.
- Alcohol: The inclusion of alcohol in a skincare product can be drying, especially denatured alcohol or high concentrations of ethanol—so avoiding it is usually best to keep your skin calm and hydrated.
- Harsh Surfactants: For a healthy barrier and balanced hydration, you’ll typically want to avoid ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), which can strip the skin’s natural oils.
Understand Your Skin Type
While we covered some of the top ingredients above, as we know, skincare is not one size fits all. My dry skin routine might completely differ from your oily skin routine, and understanding what makes sense for you is key when reading an ingredient list.
- “For dry skin, I typically recommend ingredients that improve the skin barrier, resulting in hydration and lower transepidermal water loss, such as hyaluronic acid, squalane, rich omega oils, vitamin C, vitamin E, and richer creams,” Gharavi says.
- For those who have oily skin, Gharavi tells us that “ingredients should focus on regulated sebum production, reducing excess oil, while maintaining hydration, such as retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and salicylic acid.”
- If you experience pigmentation (such as dark spots or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and are looking to even out your tone, Gharavi says that “niacinamide, vitamin C, AHAs, retinol, tranexamic acid, and of course, sunscreen, are helpful.”
- Lastly, for normal skin seeking rejuvenation, “I recommend any of the above, plus peptides and growth factors,” Gharavi tells us. “In particular, I’ve been loving the new Element Eight O2 Growth Factor Eight Active Cream ($275), which is packed with growth factors along with ceramides, peptides, hyaluronic acid, and squalane to support the regeneration of skin cells and decrease the appearance of aging.”
- “For acne-prone skin, look for salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, or tea tree oil,” Marchbein says.
- If anti-aging is your priority, Marchbein recommends that you “seek ingredients like retinoids, peptides, vitamin C, or hyaluronic acid.”
Note Concentrations and Formulations
Once you’re a pro at identifying ingredients, it’s time to go one step further and understand the different concentrations and formulations. “While ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, it’s essential to consider the overall formulation,” Marchbein notes. “Some ingredients may be more effective in specific concentrations or when combined with other ingredients. For example, vitamin C is more stable and potent when formulated with vitamin E or ferulic acid. Likewise, certain active ingredients like retinoids may require a gradual introduction to prevent irritation. Understanding how ingredients work together in a formulation can help you assess the product’s efficacy and compatibility with your skin.”
The Final Takeaway
If you're feeling like a label-reading pro after reading this, good: The above tips will take you a long way in understanding exactly what's in your skincare. And if you're still overwhelmed, Gharavi says to fall back on the basics. "Ensure the actives [in your skincare] are evidence-based (i.e have a scientific basis behind them), address your specific skin concerns, are safe, and do not cause irritation, allergic reactions, or other unwanted side-effects," he says.
