I’m a Derm—I Spotted These 8 Skincare Trends at the 2024 AAD Annual Meeting

Focused Eyelid and Under-Eye Care A Skin-Hydrating Injectable Deodorant for Full Body An Acne-Clearing Energy Device

Each year, dermatologists, skincare professionals, and scientists come together for the American Academy of Dermatology’s (AAD) Annual Meeting, one of the largest dermatology conferences in the world. The conference covers all aspects of dermatology, from insider tips and cutting-edge research to the latest skincare products and cosmetic devices.

One of the best parts of the AAD Meeting is the exhibit hall, a bustling hub where various skincare and aesthetic brands showcase their latest products and innovations, and attendees connect with the brilliant minds behind them. From new ways to target dark spots to an innovative acne treatment device, here are the key skincare trends I spotted this year at the AAD Annual Meeting.

Non-Hydroquinone Dark Spot Correctors

The skincare industry has made great strides when it comes to dark spot correction. Hydroquinone has traditionally been used to brighten the skin, but it’s also associated with irritation and possible skin discoloration, limiting its long-term use. This year at the AAD, I discovered many hydroquinone alternatives to even out dark spots that I’m excited to use myself. La Roche-Posay recently revealed its Melasyl line, which includes a discoloration serum proven to provide lasting results (and it’s safe for all skin tones). The throughline of the Melasyl line is a new ingredient called MelaB3, which has been patented by L’Oreal after 18 years of exhaustive research. Continuing the trend of gentle brightening is Skinceuticals with its Phyto A + Brightening Treatment, which brightens with ingredients like alpha arbutin and azelaic acid.

Skincare for Targeted Body Concerns

We tend to think of personalized skincare routines for our faces, but our bodies need targeted products, too. This year, popular brands are releasing skincare products for often-overlooked conditions such as body hyperpigmentation and body odor.

CeraVe has innovated with its Psoriasis Cleanser and salicylic acid-infused body bars for conditions like keratosis pilaris. I was also excited to test the Vaseline Radiant X Even Tone Body Lotion ($14), enriched with 1% niacinamide and ultra-hydrating lipids to even out the complexion and strengthen the skin barrier. In fact, the Radiant X product line was specifically designed with melanin-rich skin tones in mind.

Retinol-Alternative Peptide Products

Many brands are incorporating peptides into their products to prevent signs of skin aging and improve the skin’s barrier function. Peptides, which are small chains of amino acids, serve as the building blocks of protein. They have gained popularity as retinol–alternatives due to their ability to stimulate the skin’s natural production of collagen and elastin.

For example, Clinique returned to the AAD this year with its new Smart Clinical Repair Lifting Face + Neck Cream ($78), which contains multi-peptides, hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, and shea butter. Cetaphil also recently introduced the Healthy Renew Peptide Line, containing a range of serums, an SPF product, and a night cream to improve skin firmness, texture, and tone.

Tinted Sunscreens With Deeper Hues

Sun protection is vital for all skin tones. However, many traditional sunscreen formulations aren’t designed for diverse complexions. Even products labeled as “tinted” tend to cater to medium tones (typically Fitzpatrick Skin Types 3 and 4), leaving lighter casts and residues for those with darker skin. This year, I was thrilled to see skincare brands expanding their tinted ranges to include deeper hues. Stay tuned for new, deeper SPF tints from some of your favorite sunscreen brands.

Focused Eyelid and Under-Eye Care

The eyelid and under-eye have delicate, sensitive skin, which makes it especially difficult to find safe and effective skincare products for this area. I noticed several brands launched new products addressing common concerns around the eye, such as fine lines and discoloration. For example, RoC’s newly released two-in-one Derm Correxion Dual Eye Cream ($30) is specifically designed for the eyelid and under-eye areas. This uniquely formulated product contains an eyelid gel and an under-eye cream with a combination of peptides and retinol to lift and firm eyelid skin and depuff and reduce under-eye dark circles.

EltaMD also launched its new UV AOX Eye SPF30 ($50). This 100% mineral formula is lightweight and rich in antioxidants, designed to protect the delicate under-eye skin from environmental stressors, brighten dark circles, and reduce fine lines.

A Skin-Hydrating Injectable

An innovative injectable skin booster called Skinvive is gaining popularity amongst cosmetic dermatologists for its impressive hydration properties. It’s composed of hyaluronic acid, a potent molecule well-known for its water-attracting properties. This injectable has been shown to increase skin hydration and improve skin texture for up to 6 months. This treatment requires little to no downtime and is safe for all skin tones.

Deodorant for Full Body

When it comes to body odor and sweat, traditional deodorants focus on the underarms. However, newer products I learned about this year are addressing other areas prone to similar symptoms. For example, Dove has just launched a Whole Body Deo line, with formulas designed for sensitive skin that can be used on all areas of the body, such as the thighs, intimate areas, and feet. These products are aluminum-free, non-irritating, and infused with vitamin E.

An Acne-Clearing Energy Device

From pimple patches to Accutane, there are various over-the-counter and prescription options for treating acne. However, there is a relatively new treatment dermatologists are adding to their repertoire—an acne laser. Aviclear stands out as the first FDA-cleared energy device for treating acne. With a 1726-nanometer wavelength, this laser non-ablatively targets oil glands beneath the skin, effectively preventing future breakouts.